RESTO RECCO: Elevated pub fare at new Toronto hotspot makes diners forget that British cuisine has a bad reputation

For years, European cuisine has generated the most interest when it comes from cultures and countries known for world-class (or simply world-famous) fare. While most people are open to trying new Italian, French, Greek and Spanish restaurants, the dining public has often scoffed at British cuisine, dismissing some of the signature dishes as bland, overcooked and criminally under-seasoned. 

With this reputation dogging British cuisine since the Second World War, it would seem that opening a high-end restaurant focused on dishes inspired by English cuisine is a gamble. However, the early success of The Dorset, a beautifully designed and memorably delicious venture in The Well (457 Wellington St. W.), proves that risks are worth taking. 

First of all, this isn’t your neighbourhood pub’s cottage pie (not that there’s anything wrong with the cottage pie at your U.K.-inspired watering hole). The Dorset, owned by prestigious restaurant brand Oliver and Bonacini and helmed by Executive Chef Ryan Lister, offers next-level dishes in an environment that is somehow both whimsical and refined. 

Occupying two levels in one of Toronto’s most talked-about mixed-use developments, The Dorset boasts a stylish interior that’s both classic and modern. It combines a chic and inviting bar with a main-floor dining room that stuns with deep red wooden panelling, a striking floral accent wall, and a foxhunting mural. 

The upstairs dining room feels more formal but not stuffy, offering an upscale nautical vibe. Connected to it is an airy covered terrace with exposed brick and large windows, which offers guests a relaxing, seaside feel. 

Inspired by the chef’s hometown of Dorset, the restaurant says it’s perfect for anyone looking to savour “a full English breakfast or [tuck] into a hearty Sunday roast”–and it’s true. 

THE DISH:

It’s hard to choose just one, as the cottage pie and cheesy cauliflower were both excellent, but the standout dish is the simple but flavourful salmon and its caviar. Not only was it probably the tastiest salmon I’ve ever had, it came complete with an accompaniment I could never say no to–caviar. While the price tag isn’t tiny, don’t let the caviar intimidate you–the $38 dish features salmon roe (or ikura) fish eggs, not dissimilar to what you might get at a mid-range Japanese resto. 

Forgoing traditional sides such as rice and a steamed vegetable medley, the dish comes with potato pancakes (that look exactly like pancakes, not flat potato fritters) topped with broccolini. Also, much like other finer dining establishments, the deliciousness was due in large part to the light but generous sauce coating the dish. 

THE UNIQUE:

One thing you won’t see anywhere else is the collection of unique portraits. Diners are greeted by multiple paintings of majestic animals (think Boston terriers, tuxedo cats, French bulldogs, owls and hares) wearing only the finest attire–crowns, capes, armour, bowties, brocade vests and top hats and more. The art, both formal and absurd, adds a touch of fun to the proceedings. 

THE VERDICT:

Whether you want to grab a cocktail and Scotch duck egg at the bar, a glass of wine on the patio, a decadent mallard duck breast in the more formal dining room or afternoon tea on the terrace (a must-do experience that’s actually kid-friendly), The Dorset has something special and unique to offer. Located right downtown in a coveted hotspot, it’s ideal for dates, birthday dinners, romantic after-work cocktails and casual meetups. It’s not a low-budget outing, but it’s a memorable one.

I still think of the salmon. 

Often.