Young chef at Michelin-starred restaurant wins prestigious award

To say it’s been a big year for Victoria Rinsma is an understatement. 

Rinsma, a young Toronto-based sous chef who originally hails from Pickering, is quickly racking up accolades for crafting creative, meaningful and delicious dishes in the kitchen at Hexagon, an Oakville restaurant that made national headlines when it became the first Greater Toronto Area restaurant to earn a coveted Michelin star.

But her success transcends Hexagon. She isn’t just earning praise and recognition for dishes crafted for the French restaurant’s diners but also for wowing judges at internationally renowned competitions with meals that pair fine ingredients with something you can’t find in a pantry: Heart. 

“I feel elated. I feel very good and just a huge amount of love and support right now,” Rinsma tells INsauga.com after presenting her dish to a panel of judges at the regional finals of the prestigious S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy Competition 2024-25 in Toronto. 

The competition, which was held at George Brown College on Oct. 23, could not have gone better for Rinsma. She was not only declared the winner of the Canadian portion of the international competition on the evening of Oct. 24; she was the only chef to make one of the judges cry. 

“I am speechless because the presentation is so stunning. The touch of the personal connection, the thought behind each step,” said Chef Nuit Regular, the acclaimed toque behind some of Toronto’s best Thai restaurants, including Pai and Kiin.  

“I’m really touched because the food is not just to refill you, it shows a lot of passion, a lot of intention, a lot of creativity. The flavour, the texture, it’s very elegant and it touched me. I am very proud to be here and to taste your food. Thank you.” 

Rinsma, who stood alongside her mentor and the executive chef at Hexagon, Rafael Covarrubias, presented her dish, aptly called Across the Sea and Home Again, to a panel of three judges. The judges–Regular, Jason Bangerter (executive chef at Langdon Hall) and Normand Laprise (owner and head chef of Toqué! and Brasserie T! in Montreal)–all heaped praise on a dish that was inspired by Rinsma’s lifelong passion for cooking and the flavours she selected to honour the “beacon of cooking” in her family: Her grandmother. 

“She was just a home cook, but she loved to cook and she loved trying new recipes and foods from different cultures,” Rinsma told INsauga.com after the competition.

While Rinsma’s grandmother was not well enough to attend the event, her mother, boyfriend and other friends supported her, clapping and cheering enthusiastically when the judges unanimously declared her dish exceptional.  

The dish–which Rinsma was given five hours to prepare–featured a stunning array of ingredients, including smoked ham hock, butternut squash, juniper berries, heirloom tomatoes, agar, garlic, white wine, striped bass, English peas, white shoyu, pasilla peppers, guajillo peppers, Morita peppers, codfish heads, sherry and more. 

Rinsma says that cooking has always been integral to her life, keeping her, her mother, and her grandmother connected as they bonded over recipes and creations.

“She was really the beacon of cooking in our family,” Rinsma says.

“She made my mom fall in love with cooking. It was really just the three of us, so cooking was huge. It’s what we did when we hung out together.” 

The dish, which helped Rinsma edge out nine other competitors from across the country, was what the young chef called the “purest form of expression of her journey.” Inspired in part by her grandmother’s early years in Newfoundland, the dish, beautifully and artistically presented and accompanied by a descriptive card that pleasantly surprised everyone on the panel, was designed to take the judges through the beginning of her career to the present. 

“When I was thinking of my signature dish, something that she had made me fall in love with was going to be part of the dish,” Rinsma told INsauga.com.

“I could go on forever about the dishes she made. Whenever she made something, you could tell there was a little extra something and love in there.” 

While Rinsma’s win might not have surprised anyone who watched the judges’ eyes light up when the plates were set in front of them, it shows that the chef’s star is destined to shine even brighter at a time when she’s meeting milestones seemingly destined for cooks much deeper into their careers. 

Now slated to compete against other regional finalists in the final S. Pellegrino competition in Milan in 2025, Rinsma has already felt the jolt of excitement that comes with the rare receipt of a Michelin star. Just a few weeks ago, Hexagon was one of several Canadian restaurants–but one of very few outside of Toronto or Vancouver–to receive a star for “high-quality cooking.” 

The star came after years of accolades for Covarrubias’s resto–and the executive chef himself was also named the Toronto 2024 Young Chef Award Winner. 

Covarrubias has also been recognized by the same competition. In 2019, the chef, then just 25, was crowned the S.Pellegrino Young Chef Competition winner in the North American regional finals.

Now, Rinsma’s success is another feather in the cap of a suburban restaurant that has quickly risen to become a world-class operation known for what the Michelin Guide called its “beautiful, soigné works that are refined, original, and substantial.”

“I was overwhelmed with pride. Seeing Victoria’s passion and creativity resonate with the judges on that level was truly moving,” Covarrubias told INsauga.com in an email.

“As her mentor, it’s incredible to witness her growth and talent being recognized. That moment validated all the hard work and dedication she’s put into her craft. Regardless of the competition’s outcome, Victoria has already demonstrated her exceptional skill and potential.” 

For Rinsma, it appears that years of not just training but passion have led to this moment. From a young age, she knew she wanted to be a chef and even indulged her passion at childhood birthday parties where she and her friends would make their own chef’s hats and aprons and concoct no-bake cakes. 

“I always knew I loved cooking. As it got time to enter high school, I was a keener and it was time to think about what I wanted to do for the rest of my life and cooking just dominated every thought that I had,” she says, adding that she took cooking classes at Pine Ridge Secondary School, competed in local cooking contests and eventually enrolled in culinary school at Durham College.

In her third year of culinary school, she spent some time honing her skills in Ireland and travelled to Italy to participate in a short cooking program. 

“I love to travel and try different foods and eat; it doesn’t necessarily have to be cooking. I just absorb it all and save it for later,” she says. 

The path towards her most recent victory began when her tenacity caught Covarrubias’s attention about six years ago. 

“I had heard about Hexagon when I was in culinary school and I started following them right away and there was nothing on their Instagram page,” she tells INsauga.com.

“In a very short time, I was like, ‘I have to work here.’”

The hustle paid off. After chatting with the Mexican-born executive chef on social media, Rinsma managed to make it to the Oakville resto to celebrate her 21st birthday. When the chef realized she was the person looking for a place in the kitchen, they spoke more and about a month later, he offered her a job. 

When asked how Hexagon has fostered the talents of two acclaimed chefs–both him and Rinsma—Covarrubias credits the restaurant’s environment. 

“At Hexagon, we foster a culture of collaboration, innovation, and mutual respect. Our kitchen is a creative incubator where chefs can experiment, learn, and grow. We prioritize mentorship, providing opportunities for professional development and encouraging our team members to take ownership of their craft,” he tells INsauga.com.

“Victoria’s success is a testament to this approach. We empower our chefs to push boundaries, explore new ideas, and develop their unique styles, which ultimately elevates the entire culinary scene.” 

When asked what the Michelin star means for both up-and-coming chefs, they say that while the star has certainly elevated Hexagon’s profile, they have no intention of sitting on their laurels while the reservation requests tick up. 

“It’s very surreal,” Rinsma says, describing the Michelin star. 

“It’s something we always strive for and that doesn’t stop; we strive for the same thing. It’s nice to be among other people in the industry that share that same love of food and ambition that you do.”

For Covarrubias, the win means it’s time to push the bounds of Canadian cuisine even further.

“The Michelin star has undoubtedly elevated our profile and attracted a new wave of culinary enthusiasts. We’ve seen a significant increase in reservations and interest from foodies and critics alike,” he says.  

“However, our focus remains on delivering exceptional dining experiences for every guest, regardless of the accolades. Our team is energized by the recognition, and we’re committed to continuing to innovate and push the boundaries of Canadian cuisine.”

As for what’s next for Rinsma, Covarrubias sees potential for the young chef to one day helm the kitchen at her own acclaimed resto. 

“Victoria possesses a rare combination of talent, dedication, and passion. In the next five to 10 years, I envision her becoming a leading figure in Canadian cuisine, potentially running her own Michelin-starred restaurant or earning international recognition,” he says. 

Her creativity, work ethic, and humility will carry her far. As her mentor, I’m committed to supporting her growth and helping her achieve her culinary aspirations.”

Even before taking the top title in the regional finals in Toronto, Rinsma called the competition a win for everyone.  

“I think being a part of it is just a celebration in itself. It’s a win for everybody.”